Mumbai: The charm of the chaos

Since moving to France, I’ve become somewhat of an unofficial ambassador for my country. Especially at work, where curiosity about India often sparks all kinds of questions. Some are thoughtful, others quite funny, and a few so unexpected they leave me speechless.

One day, a colleague genuinely asked me, “Do you have Nutella in India?” I smiled, unsure whether to laugh or explain. Was it innocent curiosity, or did she imagine India as a land of villages without supermarkets?

Beyond misconceptions : Sharing India’s story

That moment made something click. I realized that representing India abroad is not just about correcting misconceptions; it’s about telling our stories, showcasing our cities, and inviting the world to see the vibrant, complex, modern country we know and love. In fact, being a voice for India in the global conversation feels like a full-time, lifelong mission and one I am proud to carry forward.

So, let me start this lifelong mission by introducing you to Mumbai, my home and my everything. This city has a mysterious charm. No wonder, in India, it is called the City of Dreams. Located on the west coast of India, Mumbai falls under the region of Maharashtra. It is the capital city of Maharashtra and the financial capital of India. One of the most populated cities in India, it currently hosts over 21 million people. It is also the city of Bollywood and a hub for future superstars and, in today’s world, influencers and content creators.

While Marathi is the regional language of Maharashtra, people from all corners of India flock here seeking a better life and opportunities. This creates a harmonious blend of religions, cultures, and dreams. And yes, a little Marathi can go a long way. You could get a good bargain at a local shop or charm your way out of a traffic fine!

And here is my attempt to immerse you in daily life in Mumbai through some of the key aspects that are part of the city’s identity.

The Mumbai local

It’s the main artery connecting the entire city. It is Mumbai’s lifeline. While there are buses, taxis, and rickshaws, nothing beats the local train when it comes to beating traffic and getting where you need to go. Young students from the outskirts, office-goers, and tourists all rely on it. But the Mumbai Local is more than just a transport system; it’s an experience, an ecosystem, a second home.

Students flip through notes or finish assignments on their way to class. Office-goers take Zoom calls between stations. Some passengers even manage to slip into a full REM cycle, heads bobbing gently with the motion of the train.

And then there’s the Mumbaikar woman. She is unstoppable, multitasking, resilient. She boards the train for her 9-to-5, and on the return journey, she’s sorting out vegetables she picked up along the way, getting a head start on dinner before she even gets home. Every action is efficient; every moment used wisely.

Somewhere in the middle of it all, quiet, unspoken bonds form between people who see each other every day, yet never meet outside that train compartment. On some days, the local commute feels like burnout; on others, it’s a moving capsule of modern city life where chaos, connection, and community coexist in a way that only Mumbai can offer.

The Mumbai coastline

What makes Mumbai geographically unique is its coastline. And what makes it truly special is how the city’s people connect to it, each in their own way.

In South Bombay, the upper-class jogs along Marine Drive on crisp Sunday mornings, soaking in the sunrise with a podcast or just the sound of waves. An exhausted corporate employee might pause one evening, choosing to sit by the sea a little longer instead of rushing home. He watches the sunset, and slowly, his breath begins to match the rhythm of the waves.

A young college-going couple is on a classic Marine Drive date, which includes a long drive, a stop by the promenade, and sharing bhel from a street vendor as they get lost in each other’s eyes while the noise of traffic fades into the background. A married couple, coming straight from work, finds their only slice of privacy here. Not because they don’t have a home, but because in a middle-class Mumbai home, you often don’t have a room of your own.

In a city where space is a luxury, the sea offers something rare: stillness, privacy, and a sense of presence. It lets you be without judgment.

The Mumbai monsoon

The chaos intensifies during the infamous Mumbai monsoon, when tracks flood and delays stretch long. It is where the city’s heart shines. In a crisis, strangers step in: five people will rush to help if you faint, lose your phone, or miss your stop. When rains stall the system entirely, Mumbaikars open their homes to strangers, offering food and shelter without a second thought. As fast as Mumbai moves, it knows how to slow down when it has to. And what’s almost funny is how these floods never actually stop anyone. Streets are submerged, stalls shut down, and transport collapses and somehow the very next day, it’s all back like nothing happened. Just like all the other forms of chaos in this city, the monsoon madness has been so deeply normalized, it’s no longer seen as a problem. It’s just… character.

Ganesh Chaturthi

Ganesh Chaturthi is a Hindu festival celebrated in many parts of India in honor of Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed god known as the remover of obstacles. During British colonial rule, public religious gatherings were banned, and it was freedom fighter Lokmanya Tilak who transformed this private celebration into a large public event to bring the Hindu community together and foster unity against colonial suppression.

In Mumbai, Ganesh Chaturthi is a major celebration. People bring home beautifully crafted idols of Lord Ganesha, decorating their homes and offering prayers for ten days. Alongside these home celebrations, every neighborhood sets up its own decorative tent called a pandal, where a large Ganesha idol is displayed for the public to visit and worship.

One of the most iconic and beloved public idols is known as Lalbaugcha Raja, which means « The King of Lalbaug », named after the locality in South Mumbai where it is installed each year. This particular idol is considered the most powerful by many devotees, who believe he is the wish-fulfilling form of Ganesha. In Marathi, the local language, he is called « Navasacha Ganpati », meaning the Ganesha who grants your heartfelt wishes.

A personal memory

When I was younger, my family used to go to see him in the middle of the night around 3 or 4 am just to avoid the massive crowds, and even then the lines would stretch endlessly. But there’s a sense of joy and devotion that makes even sleepless nights feel worth it.

On the final day of the festival, known as Anant Chaturdashi, all the Ganesha idols are taken out in large processions and immersed in the sea or other water bodies. This marks the end of his visit and his return to his celestial home. People sing, dance, and beat the traditional drums filling the streets with energy and celebration. You don’t just say goodbye to the god. You celebrate the time he spent with you.

Mumbai street food

It’s no surprise that India is a paradise for food lovers. Traditional home-cooked meals, gourmet dishes in upscale restaurants, and street food, everything is unbeatable. Mumbai is famous for its street food, available everywhere, at any time, even after midnight.

Mumbai’s all-time favourite is Vada Pav, a spicy potato fritter tucked into a soft bun, served with chutneys and a single fried green chilli. It might look like a desi burger, but it’s so much more. Vada Pav is an emotion. It’s cheap, filling, and sold on almost every street corner. It’s a childhood favourite passed down through generations.

Other local stars include Pav Bhaji, Misal Pav, and the beloved Frankie, a tortilla roll stuffed with fillings like Chinese noodles, potato and cheese, or even rice. Another college student staple is the Mumbai street sandwich, a vegetarian delight layered with boiled potato, cucumber, beetroot, tomato, onions, topped with chaat masala, cheese, coconut chutney, and more butter than you asked for.

Being a vegetarian-friendly country, India and especially Mumbai offers a huge variety of meatless options. But the city’s food scene goes beyond the streets. You’ll find fancy restaurants in Bandra, where you might spot a Bollywood celebrity dining in a candle-lit corner. And if you’re craving South Indian flavours, head to Matunga, known for its legendary dosa joints.

For a taste of France, visit places like Suzette in South Bombay or Le15 Patisserie, where renowned chef Pooja Dhingra, trained in France, crafts delicate French desserts.

The city of dreams

Mumbai is the entertainment, commercial, and financial capital of India. People come here from small towns and big cities alike, chasing dreams, chasing careers, chasing something more. Some want to be the next big Bollywood star. Others just want a shot at a better life.

Yes, the city is tough. The commute is long, the heat unforgiving, the pace relentless. It’s not for the faint-hearted. But in the chaos, there’s magic. In the exhaustion, there’s purpose. Mumbai welcomes everyone, and offers the promise that if you give it your all, it will give you something back.

You may not leave as the same person who arrived, but you’ll leave changed. Because one thing is certain: Mumbai will shape you. And whether it shapes you for better or worse, that, my friend, depends on your attitude.